Mont Blanc with preparation
The ascent of the highest mountain in the Alps
Climbing the highest mountain in the Alps at 4,807 m is not only a special experience, but also a particular challenge for any ambitious mountaineer. It requires a good level of fitness, mastery of the crampon technique and perfect tactics in order to be well acclimatized and take advantage of a good weather window for the summit day. The conditions on the three normal routes have changed considerably in recent years, so that the route via the Grand Couloir and the Gouter hut currently appears to be the best.
The hut ascent to the Gouter hut at 3,835 m offers easy climbing and the always tricky, rockfall-dangerous crossing of the Grand Couloir. Just below the summit of the Aiguille du Gouter sits the modern and architecturally successful mountaineering accommodation, which can be reached after an ascent of over 1,500 m from the Nid d'Aigle cable car station. From the Gouter hut, you set off early the next day in the direction of Mont Blanc. For these last 1,000 m of ascent, you need to be in good physical condition and well adapted to the altitude. If you have both, then the walk over the narrow Bosses ridge to the highest peak in the Alps is pure pleasure. Depending on the wind and weather, the best and most extensive Alpine panorama awaits you there, but from an unusual perspective: the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, Gran Paradiso and all the other peaks are significantly lower and line up unspectacularly in the sea of peaks that stretches to the horizon. Private huts or Alpine Club huts with limited comfort (e.g. Rif. Cosmiques, Rif. Chabod, Rif. Torino or similar) await you as bases for this high-altitude tour
Program and schedule
- State certified mountain guide:in
- 1 x reserve day for bad weatherAt Mont Blanc
- 1 x mountain guide for max. 2 participants
- Edelrid mountaineering equipment with crampons, ice axe, helmet, climbing harness
- Online training (1 h)
Preparation: We recommend independent acclimatization tours on the weekends or directly before the tour for preparation!
Day 1Meeting point at 09:00 in Staffal, on the Italian side of Monte Rosa. Ascent by cable car to "Punta Indren", hike through snow, ice and rock to the Gnifetti hut (3,647 m). Ideal altitude for acclimatization, short glacier training in the afternoon, overnight stay at the Gnifetti hut.
2nd day: Summit ascent of the Vincent Pyramid (4,215 m) and the Balmenhorn (4,167 m), which is virtually "taken along" on the descent. Start at almost 3,700 m, easy day and perfect altitude adjustment, overnight stay again at the Gnifetti hut.
Day 3: Hike back to Punta Indren, descent by cable car to Staffal, drive to Chamonix, overnight in hotel.
Day 4: Meeting in Chamonix, tour briefing and equipment check, ascent with the Bellevue cable car and the cog railroad to the Eagle's Nest and on to the Tète-Rousse hut (3,167 m) in approx. 3 hours.
Day 5: Crossing of the "Grand Couloir", arrival at the Goûter hut after approx. 2 hours, then ascent to the summit of Mont Blanc, overnight stay at the Goûter hut
Day 6: Descent and crossing of the couloir, around noon arrival in Chamonix, journey home.
Program Change: All courses and guided tours are conscientiously organized and carried out in accordance with the safety standards of the Vivalpin Mountain and Ski School with qualified mountain guides. Adjustments to the proven tour program are possible for safety-related reasons such as bad weather, dangerous conditions or insufficient conditions of the participants. The decision on the final program is made by the mountain guide on site.
- Up to 1,800 m ascent and 2,400 m descent
- Stamina for up to 8 h ascent
- Surefootedness and head for heights
- Mountain experience, experience of alpine glacier and high altitude tours, in crampon walking or ice course
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